Swell

In all of our many moments in life, every now and then one comes along that offers something fresh. An open beach in the mellow glow of the pre dawn light. The never ending expanse of sea wandering off into distant horizons. The faint shadows of sea birds painted on wet sand, and the sound of a deep swell echoing in the sweet salt air. Boards plastered with a fresh coat of surf wax, the characteristic smell allowing your mind to dream in anticipation. The first set rolls in and wraps itself around your ankles. The board floats quietly beside you. A few steps further and you enter the break zone. The chill of the ocean sets into your pores. You lay down and begin to paddle. The first wave crashes over you. A million claps of thunder reverberate inside your skull. You reach the lineup and you can feel your soul smile. Your arms burn as you paddle to catch your first wave. Your feet rhythmically dance their way into position. You are standing, dropping down the face, and leaning into your first turn. It is at this particular instant, in this single moment, that you are truly in it, fully draped with the color, feel, and flow of your own life. In this moment, without even realizing it, you understand why your are alive, and laughter fills the void.

This one's for Drew...